Last Updated: November 22, 2024
In the swampy northeastern corner of Costa Rica is the village of Tortuguero. Named by locals long ago as the place where turtles go, this incredible wildlife destination is one of the most important turtle nesting sites in the world. But there is more to this small Caribbean town. The surrounding jungle-backed canals host an amazing diversity of wildlife. Combine this with a vibrant local culture, and you have the makings for a completely authentic experience. In this post, we’ll give the basics on Tortuguero, including getting there, best things to do, and where to stay.
Orientation
Tortuguero village is a community of only about 1,200 people. This small town sits on a skinny peninsula in northeastern Costa Rica with the Caribbean Sea on one side and a wide canal on the other.
The tranquil canals/rivers weave through the rainforest and connect the village to the mainland by boat.
Although it is located on the ocean, Tortuguero is really not a beach destination. Bigger waves and riptides make it not good for swimming.
Tortuguero has one main walkway on the canal side that is paved but with no cars. The only traffic you’ll see are the many bicycles and occasional coconut carts.
Small hotels and restaurants are clustered near the boat landing or a short walk away down sandy paths. Other lodges are a quick boat ride down the canal.
Tip: Bring a little cash for your trip. While some businesses accept credit cards, many are cash only. Tortuguero does have an ATM now, but it’s a good idea to have a small stash as a backup.
Getting to Tortuguero
Since Tortuguero is so remote, it is somewhat difficult to access. That being said, it’s totally worth the effort. You also don’t need a vacation package to get there if you’d rather explore independently.
There are two ways that travelers arrive to the village.
One is to take a domestic flight (small plane) from San Jose. We aren’t currently recommending small plane flights in Costa Rica due to the unreliability of local airlines.
But don’t worry, there’s another way to arrive that makes for a very scenic travel day – taking a boat. Boats leave from the towns of La Pavona, Cano Blanco, and Moin. These travel along the rivers right through the rainforest.
Since getting to Tortuguero can be a bit intimidating, we’ve written a separate post. Check out Getting to Tortuguero for all the specifics on flights, boat schedules, directions, parking, etc.
Activities in Tortuguero
Most activities in Tortuguero are focused on seeing the abundant wildlife like monkeys (three types), sloths, and exotic birds. In between excursions, though, make sure to spend some time walking around town, meeting the local people and getting a feel for this tight-knit community.
Here are some of the most popular things to do in Tortuguero.
Tortuguero National Park
The main attraction in Tortuguero is the national park. It is made up of both the beach where turtles nest and the rainforest and mangroves where so many other animals can be seen.
There are two main ways to explore the park.
On land, there is a ranger station located at the southern end of town (admission $15), which lets you hike the park’s few muddy trails. By boat, you can access four waterway trails, which are basically rivers. Hire a guide to take you or go on your own by renting a kayak.
If you’re feeling ambitious, you can do both the land and water trails the same day, using the same entrance ticket.
Read our post, Tortuguero National Park: A Wildlife Hot Spot, for more information about planning your visit.
Tip: If this is your first time in Costa Rica, we recommend hiring a guide for the canals. Monkeys, sloths, birds, caiman, lizards, and other intriguing creatures are often hidden in the thick rainforest.
Sea Turtle Watching
Four species of endangered sea turtles instinctively return to the beaches of Tortuguero to lay their eggs. With a 22-mile (35 km) stretch of pristine gray sand, it is the perfect setting for these mysterious creatures.
Turtle watching must be done with a guide. Tours are at night when the turtles nest (around $20 pp). Some turtle species have such few numbers that on any given night only a handful might come to shore. Since the beach is so long, at slower nesting times it can be see them.
The most abundant are the Atlantic Green Sea Turtles, which arrive between July and October, so visit then for the best chance. More rare are the Leatherback Turtles, giant creatures that can reach up to six feet long and nest in much smaller numbers from March to May.
You also can walk the beach on your own in the early morning hours to see if there are any hatchlings. We have done this and saw a few flippers starting to make their way out of the sandy holes!
For more information on turtle nesting tours, read about our experience.
Cerro Tortuguero
For a gorgeous bird’s eye view of the entire area, you can do the short hike up to Cerro Tortuguero. This is a separate national park located a quick boat ride from town.
The boardwalk trail raises you above the ground and meanders through dense rainforest. When we visited, we saw tons of tiny poison dart frogs as well as spider monkeys.
Getting a boat from town to Cerro Tortuguero is easy. And this activity only takes a couple of hours, making it a great add on one day.
For more information on visiting, including how to get tickets, read our post, Cerro Tortuguero: Hike and Viewpoint.
Sea Turtle Conservancy Museum and Visitors Center
Even if you don’t get to see a nesting turtle, you can still learn all about the amazing lifecycle of these creatures.
The Sea Turtle Conservancy, a global conservation organization, has a small but nicely done visitors center ($2.50 entrance) on the northern end of town.
The museum and short video do a good job explaining how turtles live and breed and tell more about the Conservancy’s efforts. They teach visitors why Tortuguero Beach is so important to turtle survival.
For more information about visiting, read our separate post about the Conservancy.
Tip: Plan to spend 2-3 days in Tortuguero. This will allow you to hit all the highlights and get a taste of the local culture without getting bored.
Hotels and Lodges in Tortuguero
There are many different options for lodging in Tortuguero. You can stay either in the village or at one of the resorts farther from town.
Some guidebooks make it seem like staying in the village is only for backpackers, but we have really enjoyed it in the past and saw many other couples and families there as well. There are some great restaurants and plenty of local culture in town.
Most hotels in town are more rustic (think no A/C). If you’d prefer a little more comfort, it’s better to stay outside town at one of the ecolodge resorts. We have also enjoyed this.
Resorts Outside Town
Overview
If you’re staying at one of the resorts, you’ll likely need to get a package that includes transportation and meals. These hotels are set remotely, farther from town, so it’s harder to get to town for food.
Also, the all-inclusives are not fancy resorts like in other parts of Costa Rica. They may have A/C and feel more upscale, but are still ecolodges.
Tortuga Lodge and Gardens
We loved our stay at Tortuga Lodge and Gardens. This is a small resort with a mix of rooms and larger suites. Although it feels modern and comfortable, it fits nicely into the area.
The hotel looks out to the scenic canal and is surrounded by thick rainforest. Right on the property, we saw a sloth, frogs, huge iguanas, toucans, and lots of other birds.
The large pool is perfect for cooling off on humid days.
Tortuga Lodge includes three meals a day. The menu is fairly large and we found everything to be quite good. The service is wonderful, both at the restaurant and the tour guides they use. All rooms have A/C. $400-1,200/night (for 2 people with meals included). Check Rates and Availability Here.
Mawamaba Lodge
For a more affordable resort in Tortuguero, there’s Mawamba Lodge. Mawamba is also a little outside town on the canal and close to the beach. Plenty of wildlife surrounds the property. The sounds of both the jungle and ocean make it a unique spot.
All rooms are fan only at this ecolodge (no A/C).
Mawamba has a restaurant onsite and a cool new floating restaurant where you can eat while taking in the view.
The hotel has a small pool.
*Note that Mawamba is not technically an all-inclusive resort as lunch and dinner are not included in the nightly rate anymore (only breakfast is included). However, many people end up eating there since it’s farther from town (about a 15 min. walk). $150-225/night (for 2 people with breakfast included). Check Rates and Availability Here.
Hotels in Town
Tortuguero Adventures Guesthouse
Tortuguero Adventures Guesthouse is a small hotel located in town near the national park entrance. The rooms are simple, but clean and comfortable and look out to the river. There is a small shared kitchen. The hotel also has a tour business, which makes setting up activities easy. Rooms have a private bathroom and A/C. $80-95/night (double occupancy). Check Rates and Availability Here.
Casa Marbella
This popular B&B is located right in the heart of the village. Rooms are simple, but bright, clean, and comfortable. Casa Marbella is a good option for families, with some rooms holding up to five people. Breakfast is served daily on the patio overlooking the river. $40-65/night (double occupancy). Check Rates and Availability Here.
Cabinas Tortuguero Natural
This is a small bed and breakfast just a short walk from the beach and town. Rooms are basic, yet spacious. The biggest draw of Cabinas Tortuguero Natural is the friendly, welcoming manager who is always willing to help. Private rooms with hot water and fans are around $40-50/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.
Hotel El Icaco Tortuguero
We have stayed at Hotel El Icaco and enjoyed it. It was in the perfect location, right on the Caribbean Sea and just a short five minute walk to town. Our room was spacious and clean, with a private bath, hot water, and a nice deck. The management took a lot of care in the hotel, with fresh paint all around and clean linens every day of our stay.
The small restaurant on-site is a great option for breakfast when you don’t want to venture into town. Hammocks overlooking the sea offer a nice place to relax. Most rooms have A/C. $50-90/night. Check Rates and Availability Here.
Aracari Garden Hostel
For the shoestring traveler, there’s the popular Aracari Garden. Guests love the fully equipped kitchen, comfy beds, and welcoming atmosphere. This small hostel is just a two minute walk to town and the beach. Dorm beds, $13. Private rooms, $35-50. They also have one Family Apartment with two bedrooms, $95. Check Rates and Availability Here.
Restaurants in Tortuguero
If you’re staying in the village and not at one of the all-inclusive lodges, chances are you will be on your own for most meals. The village is small so there aren’t a ton of restaurants, but don’t fret, there are some great options.
Restaurante Mi Nino
One of the most popular restaurants in Tortuguero is Restaurante Mi Nino. This simple restaurant serves traditional Costa Rican food. You’ll find things like casados (traditional lunch plates with a protein, rice and beans, and sides), rice dishes, and patacones, but also Caribbean specialties. The staff is friendly and helpful.
Budda Café
Budda Café has an amazing location right along the canal. It’s a good place to go for drinks to take in the view. For food, they have pasta dishes, tasty pizza, burgers, sandwiches, and homemade crepes.
Soda Heliconia
We ate at this simple typical soda (Costa Rican restaurant) for breakfast a couple of times on one of our visits and loved not only the food, but most of all the hospitality. After graciously agreeing to make us vegetarian omelets, we watched the little boy help mom by walking to the market around the corner to get a tomato and some peppers. A few minutes later and we had delicious veggie omelets made especially for us.
Conclusion
With Tortuguero’s abundant wildlife and friendly locals, it is no wonder that this remote village has become one of Costa Rica’s top ecotourism destinations.
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Last Updated: November 22, 2024
Have you been to Tortuguero? What did you enjoy the most? Let us know in the comments below.
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Looking for more information to plan your trip to Costa Rica? Check out these posts:
Puerto Viejo de Talamanca: Caribbean Cool in Costa Rica – Getting to the beautiful beaches of the southern Caribbean coast is fairly easy from Tortuguero. Our destination guide has lots of tips for visiting.
La Fortuna: What to Expect – La Fortuna/Arenal is a great stop after Tortuguero. Check out our post for recommended lodging and activities.
Packing for Costa Rica: The Essentials – Tortuguero is a remote destination so it’s important to bring everything you’ll need with you. Our packing post has all the details.
